Monday 22nd February was our wedding anniversary, and we celebrated with a night at the Sofitel Darling Harbour in Sydney. We masked up and braved the train – our first journey on public transport for months – arriving to a warm welcome around 11am, where we ditched our bag and went off for a walk around the precinct. The Eora people called Darling Harbour ‘Tumbalong’, meaning a place where seafood is found, and when Europeans came along they called it Cockle Bay. Once a working port, with warehouses and rail lines, it was transformed into a tourist precinct in 1988 as part of our Bicentennial Celebrations. Since then it has had several revamps and extensions. It is home to the Maritime Museum, Sea Life Aquarium, Wild Life Sydney Zoo, Madame Tussauds Wax Museum, the Convention Centre, and the Exhibition Centre, as well as numerous restaurants and some shops (the latter looking a bit tired and homogenous). Our room on the 20th floor overlooked the Central Business District of Sydney from the Cockle Bay end of the waterway. It acquires different names as you pass under the bridge in the left hand side of the below photo. On the right, the former IMAX theatre and restaurants are being rebuilt. The pontoon and dinghies also on the right is an outdoor floating cinema! The texture in the photo is dirt on the window 🙂
At this stage the day was sunny and bright, temperatures pushing towards 30’C (86’F). After a delightful outdoor lunch of a shared tapas plate we wandered along past the Maritime Museum, much of which is outdoors (natch, it’s where the boats go!). The HMAS Onslow is always popular, but closed at the moment. Submarines weren’t designed for social distancing at the best of times.
The ferry terminal Pyrmont Bay Wharf is at the end of the boardwalk, and we jumped on board to be taken around to Circular Quay. Our ferry, Bungaree was put into service in 2017. Six of these Emerald Class were commissioned. One was to be named Ferry McFerryface but the Maritime Union seamen – quite rightly in my opinion – refused to crew it with such a silly name. It transpired it was a politician’s personal pick (dohhh!). It was then renamed May Gibbs, after our beloved children’s author of Snugglepot and Cuddlepie fame, the gumnut babies who live in the bush. You can visit the home, Nutcote House, that inspired her stories by taking a ferry from Circular Quay to Neutral Bay (not open Mondays or we would have gone there.)
The newest redevelopment in Sydney is an area now called Barangaroo. Again, this entire section of waterfront was part of the inner-harbour cargo movements, and Bill worked here on conventional and small capacity containers ships until the late 1990s. At the end of the point stands One Barangaroo. This phallic symbol is intended to be a casino and hotel complex, however the operator Crown Casino, part of the empire of the mighty media Packer family, has been found by the New South Wales regulator to be unfit to hold a licence due to money laundering and links to organised crime. Which makes it something of an impotent phallic symbol in my opinion (and that’s the polite version of how I described it to Bill).
The ferry crosses over to that side of the waterway to a new stop called Barangaroo Wharf 1, then across again to another peninsula point, Balmain East, before turning north-east to cross the face of Lavender Bay on Sydney’s north shore. As I write in my manuscript, “McMahons Point on one side and Milsons Point on the other, are twin peninsulas extending into Sydney harbour like the long fingers of two hands cupping Lavender Bay between their protective palms.” Tourists can alight at Milsons Point for a very pleasant walk around to Wendy’s Secret Garden, which is hidden in the greenery of this long-distance photo.
The big excitement at Milsons Point is Luna Park, where the laughing clown face waits to welcome revellers to its amusements. Beside the wharf is an Olympic swimming pool which is about to be closed for renovations. Then passengers pass under the Sydney Harbour Bridge and look towards the Opera House as the ferry heads for its final stop at Circular Quay. I’ve put in some sample photos with titles that can be viewed by clicking on them in the gallery (I hope). One is out of focus but I thought it was fun to compare the contrast between cultures: Opera House versus Casino.
We hadn’t organised ourselves to do anything special. Tosca was playing at the Opera House, but that is not Bill’s thing. Some other theatres were operating but had already sold their limited allocation. So we opted to go to the cinema – another first since COVID reached us twelve months ago. Would you believe we were the only two in a cinema seating around three hundred! We saw The Dry, based on Jane Harper’s book of the same name. Given that the drought ravaged Australian landscape was practically another character, it deserved being viewed on the big screen. With time to kill, we wandered around the Opera House. Most people think of its architecture as sails, but from a certain angle, I see conquistador’s hats. See my point?
When we left the cinema around 6pm, it was a different day outside. The temperature had dropped dramatically. It was overcast and windy. We decided to jump on the ferry and go back to the hotel.
Back at the hotel, a complimentary bottle of red and a note from the management acknowledged our special day. We drank this later, ensconced in fluffy bathrobes after having showered off the stickiness of the humid day, while we watched the night view from our hotel window.
But first, it was a drink in the downstairs bar then off to dinner, again along the Darling Harbour waterfront. I joke that we had dinner by candelight, thousands of wattage worth. We sat outside under a warm heater, and watched the few couples who came along for a Ferris wheel ride. This is new since the last time we visited, and I think the attraction must be the view from its height, although the planning would never had factored in a loss of trade from a pandemic. Lit up, it presented a pretty picture, and as we walked the short distant back to the hotel, I noticed that it too had its own colour changing light display: red, green and blue. And what looked like pink but may have been an optical illusion. I’ve only included one example in the photo gallery.
What would we do without electricity? Earth hour is coming up this Saturday 27 March. It would interesting to see if all these offices and businesses complied. All the same, it was a pretty picture from the 20th Floor.
… and so to bed …
Happy anniversary, Gwen. What a wonderful way to celebrate. You certainly know how to do it in styie.
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It was a wonderful spoil.
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I love Sydney & i always enjoy your writings, & now about our fabulous city, makes me want to visit it again.
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Thank you Sylvia. I’m so glad you liked the writing. That’s always a big boost.
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That is a beautiful photo of the city from the 20th floor!
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It was certainly a view! Nice of the hotel to allocate us that room.
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I could stare and stare at one photo in particular. Thanks for sharing your days and bringing back memories for all who have had the pleasure of touring Sydney. I was taken there again by your lovely post.
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Thank you so much Doug! I took all the photos on the cell phone I shouted myself for Christmas. It’s only mid-range, a Samsung Galaxy A31, but I was happy with my snaps (and the framing of them). Reducing the file size to not gobble up WordPress capacity has affected them though.
I did a second day in case you are interested to catch that post.
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Well, a Happy Anniversary to you two. How nice to get out and stretch your tourist legs.
A year ago, we were worried about the bushfires, not knowing that some fresh hell was about to arrive!
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This feels very close to the twelve month anniversary of our face to face meeting.
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It must be. Lots of water has flowed under the bridge since then!
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Great photos! Congratulations on your anniversary! The Ferris wheel looks fun!
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Many thanks Sue. I’m glad you enjoyed this glimpse of Sydney.
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Absolutely fabulous and so pleased you were able to have such a special treat for your anniversary. Love the comment about the Packer family and the casino – ha, ha, ha. Heartening to read that these types don’t always get away with it! And, going to the cinema, my envy meter just flicked into the red zone. I have read ‘The Dry’ and I expect it looked spectacular on a big screen. Cheers to you and Bill and good luck, too, with Earth Hour. I am thinking that maybe office buildings unnecessarily lit up like Christmas trees all through the night will soon be assigned to the past.
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Isn’t it amazing so many lights can be left burning all night! I thought of you when I wrote about The Dry. I remembered how reading it had affected you. I haven’t read that, but another of her books with Policeman Aaron Falk (Force of Nature. It was okay, not outstanding). I would never have imagined Eric Bana for the part. Always the way, isn’t it?
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Eric Bana . . . probably not, but he is pretty tall isn’t he although I think I had imagined a guy quite a bit younger. I am not sure I remember the details in the book accurately, but do we have a little reverse ‘Edith Pretty’ syndrome here?
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He’s over 6′ and of Slavic descent. Correct surname is Banadinović. I was surprised to see he is 52 – he did look younger in the film, fortyish I put him at. But yes! Reverse syndrome indeed 🙂
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So great to read one of your posts again, Gwen. I really miss them. And this one is wonderful. So glad you and Bill had a good time in celebrating your anniversary…and you brought us along.
Stay Safe.
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Thank you so much Don and lovely to hear from you. Hopefully I’ll get the next day’s adventures up soon. I’m in a hiatus waiting on feedback on my latest manuscript version.
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Sounds good. Fingers crossed
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What beautiful pictures. Looks like you had a great time. Happy Anniversary!
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How lovely to hear from you Linda. I was looking around yesterday for a way to thank you for being a recent follower. Glad I could give you a glimpse of Sydney.
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Thank you for taking us along on your anniversary tour. It is good that daft boat names are rejected. Maybe circumcision would have helped One Bangaroo.
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That gave me a good bellylaugh. You can tell how overawed I was with it 🙂
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I’m pleased about that, Gwen 🙂
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What a lovely way to celebrate your anniversary. I really enjoyed your post as it brought back fond memories of our visits to Sydney. On two occasions, we stayed in a wonderful apartment at Milsons Point overlooking Lavender Bay. We also took the ferries and I can remember visiting the Maritime Museum and stepping on board my first ever submarine. Hope we get back there before too long Gwen. Take care, Marion
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Isn’t that wonderful it brought back memories for you. Lavender Bay is dear to me as my family lived there for some time although I was still a babe in arms when we left. It has a role to play in the manuscript I’m currently working on.
I can always remember my brother saying people expected they were boarding a nuclear submarine, which that one is not. I had a friend in the navy, 6’3″. It didn’t take him long to learn submarine duty was not for him. All the best, Gwen
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Belated happy anniversary wishes to you and Bill!! Sounds like an awesome adventure back in your old stomping ground….lovely to be out and about once again. We are so lucky to live in this wonderful country. 😘
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Thanks so much! Yes, we’re doing okay over here, that’s for sure.
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LOVE the description of 1 Barangaroo🤣🤣
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Absolutely another time!!
Just read part two – and I learned some things! Eg the hungry mile / james Martin & the eternity man!
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You can see how underwhelmed I was with it J
I thought about trying to catch you for a coffee, but it would have required more timing than I was prepared for. Another time xx Gwen
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It’s been a while since I’ve been to Sydney. Your descriptions helped me relive my memories. Thanks, Gwen.
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Thanks Barb. There will be a second instalment – hopefully.
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Thanks for the in-depth tour, I’m exhausted just reading your busy day. A lovely day was had by all.
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We thought so also in hindsight, even though we had nothing planned 🙂
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Happy memories of a special place! Good to read one of your blogs again Gwen.
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That was quick off the mark JoJo – and thanks!
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