Bill and I were expecting to spend the first week of February (2023) on the 18-cabin riverboat Proud Mary out of Murray Bridge in South Australia. We were to spend five nights cruising upstream to Blanchetown (SA) and back, with daily excursions. Here’s the itinerary if you are tempted.

Fate – in the shape of climate change – had other ideas, as the record-breaking rains we had through most of 2022 found their way into the system of the mighty Murray River. Floodwaters and potential damage to levees meant river traffic was banned from the beginning of December until only a week or two ago.
The Murray is Australia’s longest river, being 2,508 km (1,558 mi) in length. It rises in the Australian Alps (Australia’s highest mountains), drains down the western slopes, and then meanders northwest, forming the border between the states of New South Wales and Victoria, and then flows on into South Australia where it drains into the sea near the Coorong (as in the 1976 film Storm Boy if you have seen that). Along the way, several important tributaries feed into it, the most significant being the Darling River, which rises near the New South Wales / Queensland border and flows southwest from there. The amount of water it poured in at its confluence with the Murray River at Wentworth is part of the reason that the South Australian Murray River residents copped so much flood damage.
I found this clear and simple map on http://www.melbournemotorhomes.com/melbourne-to-the-murray-river-scenic-route.htm, but it, in turn, has been lifted from a government website.

I didn’t have many blog followers when way back in 2012 Bill and I set off on a road trip to follow the course of the Murray from its source in the Alps – Corryong was the nearest town accessible by car – to as far as we could get in the time available before I started a new job. We reached Swan Hill, well short of the South Australian border. I wrote a series of about six posts, beginning with the below link. In my biased view, I think they contain some interesting “stuff” about what you can see and experience in this part of the world.
So! with a hole in our diaries for February, Bill and I decided to set off on an entirely different short break, and headed west into New South Wales country. But I’ll save all that for the next post.
By the way, it’s 5.45pm on a warm, sunny day in the beginning of our autumn (fall) and a huge flock of corellas has just flown past my study window on their way to bed for the night. They’ve been doing this for a couple of months now, and they are definitely noisy about it. There’s always a straggler calling out not to be left behind. I haven’t worked out where they go yet, but there is a botanical garden nearby, and also lots of bushland and trees in the foothills of the escarpment behind us (part of the Great Dividing Range). Corellas are medium-sized white cockatoos, with a pink patch on the head and blue-ringed eyes.
If the below link will play for you, this is exactly what they sound like. A second flock is just coming through now, so I best not play it, or I might send them off-course!
That’s very annoying about your cruise, but hopefully you won’t get caught with the ‘wrong’ dates again when you re-schedule. It does seem as though the Climate Crisis is beginning to have impacts of a greater or lesser extent on a daily basis around the world, but you wouldn’t know that from the British Press. A tweet by a football commentator has lead the news cycle here for nearly three days – honestly you have to laugh otherwise you’d be screaming the whole time.
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I’ve seen headlines about it over here – but you’ll pardon me for not digging into the details … sigh.
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Nah – it’s not worth the trouble. It’s just more pathetic stories of a sad little country at the very, very end of the very long tail of empire. Oh the toe-curling embarrassment of being a Brit these days.
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It seems to be dawning on people that Brexit was not a brilliant idea. But individualism felt good for a moment. Shades of reclaiming an imperial past?
But it’s still on my bucket list to return for some months.
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Well I’d definitely wait until the current ongoing, widespread strike actions have ended. I was in London last week during the Tube strike and central London was gridlocked for hours.
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That’s sounds grim. I have no intention of international travel for this year, but there is a writers’ retreat in Morocco in February of next year that a friend and I are considering. After a bit of visiting in cities, it culminates with 8 nights in an off-the-grid place on the edge of the Sahara Desert!
If we did sign up, then definitely I would combine that with a short visit to England.
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A stay on the edge of the Sahara Desert sounds interesting. My mother was fascinated by deserts and arriving in Kuwait to marry my father I think she was more in love with the idea of living on the edge of the desert than my father!
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The Corella recording got the cats’ attention! They are looking all around for the birds. I am going through your old posts now. I hope you will get to take the riverboat trip in the future.
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I saw you are catching up with those old posts. Thanks so much Lavinia, and for the lovely comments.
The riverboat cruise is now scheduled for December. A long time to wait, and for them to hang on to our money, but the flooding was unprecedented and so all we can do is be supportive as everyone gets back on their feet.
That corella recording was quite the find. I’m giggling at the mental picture of your cats trying to find the culprits.
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What an interesting post, Gwen. A pity you couldn’t go on your trip, as it sounds like it would have been lovely. I’m definitely going to check out your old posts following the river by car. I learn so much about Australia through your writing. These long rivers are so intriguing to me, and I’ve thought that one day I would love to follow the Tagus river from where it starts on the far side of Madrid all the way down to where it spills out in the Atlantic past Lisbon. Even now, I try to visit as many places on its banks as I can, as I often come close to where it flows on my trips to either Madrid or Lisbon.
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We intend to do the Murray River trip in December. I so often think of you on the quinta, and wonder how it would be to hang out with you there, and also all those other trips you wrote about beforehand. I’m getting older by the second … but one of these days … meanwhile I am ecstatic that anything I write can inspire you 🙂
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We always had a plan for a little guest cottage on the land to share the beauty and special energy with others, Gwen, but the crazy bureaucracy makes that dream impossible. Such a pity really, but one day, we do plan to at least change our barn into two bedrooms and a bathroom, so that we can at least welcome guests on the land. So keep dreaming . . . as it would be so lovely. I can just imagine all the wonderful conversations we can have.
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Sounds delightful! And I agree, I can picture us sitting on your patio, a light wine in hand, and chatting as the sun sets behind the olive trees (hmmmm, that would mean the patio faces west, and I think you get morning sun, so that would be east). But no matter! It’s still a romantic dream.
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Always another day & I hope the Dec dates are successful. Do enjoy Norfolk Island – always wanted to get there after two sojourns in Lord Howe.
The birds are certainly entertaining here at the Links but, very noisy!!!
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I hold a soft spot for all our local birds, especially the cheeky white-faced heron, and the spoonbill. Even the cockatoo who smashed my windscreen! Naughty of him – and I bet he went back and told his mates how to do it.
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Thanks for the links. When I was a kid my brother and my father went to the Coorong and it has remained in my psyche ever since. It is a magical place for me – I cannot imagine how important it must be to the aboriginal people.
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I suspected you would respond positively to the mention of the Coorong 🙂
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Thanks for bring us along, Gwen. It must have been a wonderful trip.
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Hopefully I’ll make the time to write about what we did in place of the Proud Mary.
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The cruise would have been wonderful. I do hope you are able to reschedule and try again. Enjoyed your corella recording – it brought your local area to life for me! Have a great weekend. Marion
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Hi Marion,
Not all my neighbours appreciate our corellas but I love them. Such characters.
We are rescheduled to take the Murray River trip in December. A long time to wait, but in the meantime, we are off to Norfolk Island in late April.
Thanks for commenting, Gwen.
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They certainly let you know they’re around. We’ve moved to the city [town] now and the only wild life we get are wallabies on our lawn and the odd snake. -Very tame. I do hope that you do get your Murray trip sometime.
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I don’t get out and about as much as I should, but we do have an amount of birdlife close by, especially waterbirds, as we are on a links golf course. Murray trip now scheduled for December (probably be in drought by then 🙂 )
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That sounds like a wonderful cruise. It was fascinating reading the history of the area and the wildlife sounds very exotic compared to the UK. Will you book again or has the moment passed?
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There is a small group of us going so to settle on a mutually agreeable time when we didn’t know when the river would open turned into us going this December leading into Christmas!
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It was good to read your earlier post, and I liked the corella recording
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Thanks Derrick. I had a scan through those older posts and got a bit of a kick out of them myself!
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It is a good reminder for us.
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The sound of Australia personified!
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I’m sure you have many interesting sights and sounds in your neck of the woods. And now you’ll have autumn marching in soon…
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