Saturday 14th March 2020
Today we headed south of Adelaide to visit the McLaren Vale area, famous as one of the many wine-growing districts of South Australia. Using the modern highway built around the year 2000, it’s less than an hour south of the city.
We last visited in 2016, and you can read about the wineries we visited that day by clicking here.
Today’s destination, the d’Arenberg Cube, is not your regular cellar-door winery. The brochure says “The design is inspired by the complexities and puzzles of winemaking“. It includes a wine sensory room*, a 360′ video room, a contemporary art gallery, and many other tactile experiences.
* There is a ‘smell-a-rama’ room shortly after entering. Flagons line the walls, each containing a different scent. Squeeze the attached rubber bulb and the aroma is released for you to identify. You know all those things we commonly read on labels? Passionfruit, citrus, berry, etc, etc.
In 2016, construction commenced on the d’Arenberg Cube, a five storey multi-function building set among Mourvèdre vines. It includes a new tasting room, a restaurant, private tasting rooms and state of the art facilities on each level. Source: https://www.darenberg.com.au/the-story/
The family behind this, the Osborns, have been winemakers in McLaren Vale since 1912. There is a detailed and endearing family history timeline on their website.
Today, it is the fourth generation family member, Chester, who not only makes distinctive wines using traditional methods, but whose off-beat artistic flair is rife throughout the complex.
On the 1st Floor, visitors can watch the chefs hard at work in their state-of-the-art kitchen.
The 2nd Floor housed a special exhibition of 23 bronze sculptures and graphic artworks on loan from the Salvador Dali Universe in Switzerland. We did not visit this ticketed event, but there were a couple of taste teasers in the entrance grounds.
The restaurant is on the 3rd Floor, offering luxury degustation dining with optional wine pairings, including back vintage releases. This was heavily patronised on the day of our visit.
We headed to the 4th floor, to enjoy a tasting of various d’Arenberg wines. We were served by one of Chester’s daughters, a delightful young woman. Step outside, and there is a viewing platform showcasing 360′ views over McLaren Vale, the Willunga Hills, and the Gulf of St Vincent.
Scattered throughout the building are artworks, murals, and on the ground floor, an area called the “alternate realities museum”.
Perhaps the quirkiness of this place is best illustrated by the mens’ urinals on the 1st floor:
Aficionados can join the Cenosilicaphobic Club and have their preferred wines delivered to door on a regular basis. I’m very tempted to leave the definition of the club name to fellow blogger Derrick Knight, but in case others would miss his comment, I’ll share. It is the “fear of an empty glass“.
I overlooked to mention the red wines are foot trod during fermentation. There is a video showing how it is done. There was a faint similarity to Lucille Ball’s attempt.
We were lucky to have the chance to experience this unique complex. Since that visit two weeks ago, The d’Arenberg Cube is closed indefinitely due to the COVID19 pandemic.
There are an estimated 74 cellar doors and over 160 vineyards in the McLaren Vale. There are also artisans such as cheese makers and bakeries. Many interesting foods such as flavoured almonds, olive oils, dukkah, gourmet sauces and jams – and yummy chocolates – can be found at the Almond Train. We had a late lunch in the adjoining carriage.
We spent that night together around the family dinner table, catching up on old times, before collapsing into comfortable recliners and catching up on the day’s television news, much of which was devoted to coronavirus, which had only been declared a pandemic a day or two before.
As I’d mentioned in the previous post, our Prime Minister had declared we were to avoid attending gatherings of more than 500 as from the following Monday. Perhaps his message was meant to convey “keep calm and carry on“, as the football season was to commence tonight (Saturday), and his “beloved” team were first up and he was keen to attend.
After all, he back flipped on that idea, but the seeds of confusion were already sown. If it’s okay on Saturday to attend a mass event, how come it’s not okay on Monday? I thought back to my management training in the days I had a job. “Lead by example” was mantra number one. Maybe this was a case of, “Don’t do as I do, do as I say“.
However, comfortably ensconced in the recliner, with the family dog resting at my feet, and conversation swirling around me . . . I think I may have decided to leave such conundrums for another day. I slipped in to the land of nod.
Visual feast for the eyes here, but my I do love the idea of a ‘smell-a-rama’. I think ‘smell’ is so often overlooked yet it can be incredibly evocative – pulling up memories from deep, deep childhood. I love these thoughtful installations where creative people are encouraging their visitors to experience their surroundings in novel and perhaps a little bit challenging ways.
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I read that the shape of the urinals is meant to mimic a pendulous grape hanging on the vine. Who thinks like this? (she asks an artist, LOL). And the caricatures are based on their wine labels.
I agree with you about smell and memories. In my book, I write about the smell of being under the house, and a friend of mine who lived in a similar house contacted me to say she was taken immediately to her childhood memory when she read that.
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I am guessing that’s an artist with a sense of humour – a rare being.
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Certainly Chester Osborn is not afraid to think outside the box. The d’Arenberg motto is “the art of being different.”
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Dammit! It is 6 p.m. and I don’t have a glass.
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What! Have you run out of liquid supplies?
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Oh, no! Just no glass to hand 🙂
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Phew!
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🙂
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Thank you Gwendoline, what a most amazing place. But there’s more to McLaren Vale than meets the eye obviously. Did you bring wine back?
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We brought back the three bottles from Barristers Block that were part of the recovery pack. And one very special and unexpected gift from Yvonne. All the rest did not fit in the boot 🙂
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I’m still non the wiser what a wine sensory room is. Do you sniff it, drink it, or bathe in it? 😀
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I wondered whether I should expand on that as I was writing, but it was practically midnight by then 🙂
There is a ‘smell-a-rama’ room shortly after entering. Flagons line the walls, each containing a different scent. Squeeze the attached rubber bulb and the aroma is released for you to identify. You know all those things we commonly read on labels? Passionfruit, citrus, berry, etc, etc.
Clearly, a pre-COVID 19 activity.
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We used to have a programme on TV called Food and Drink where one of the presenters attempted to describe the taste of wine (rubber tyres, apricots, eau-de-cologne etc) hopefully this video from 1994 will play – starts at 12 minutes in.
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Should there have been a link attachment, Eileen?
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Oops – sent separately 😀
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Got it, thanks! Gosh . . .
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In NYC Coronavirus is killing one person every 17 minutes…
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That’s insane! That’s 85 people a day. Another blogger pointed me towards this article. Is there similar thinking in Oregon?https://www.marketwatch.com/story/texas-lt-gov-dan-patrick-says-grandparents-are-willing-to-die-to-save-economy-for-their-grandkids-2020-03-23
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First time I’ve heard anything like that… Opinions in the US are diverse between states and especially the West and East Coasts versus the Middle or South. It seems we’re all uninformed or misinformed in one way or another. It doesn’t make sense to me because statistics now show that one in four cases occurs in someone under 40 – young people aren’t exempt. Of course, if you’re old and have lung issues – it isn’t a good thing, Coronavirus or not… At least people aren’t laughing it off anymore, gadding about, and pretending it’s just a joke. Watching corpses in caskets being shipped away in Italy is sobering. I was in Sicily about this time last year. This would be a tough time to be a nurse or doctor. People in high-density areas with little chance to “socially distance” are clearly at very high risk. EVERYTHING here is closed except markets, pharmacies, gas stations, hospitals. I went grocery shopping yesterday and people seemed stressed and strange, even though there have only been 8 cases and 1 death so far in my immediate area. I remember getting some very serious air borne viruses in South Africa that took forever to recover from and required changes in medicine because the viruses became resistant. The financial part of it is also terrifying!!!!!
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I registered for online supermarket shopping this morning in a scheme for “seniors”. LOL. Everything here has also ground to a halt. We are down to groups of 2.
My Aussie friend who lives in Texas suggests that most who are in power are young, and do we remember how when we were young, we thought anyone over 30 was ancient and over-it? Not that that excuses his comments.
I chopped my hair off today because it was annoying me and hairdressers are closed. I figured it grows fast and no one will see me for ages 🙂
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